Friday, 22 January 2016

Up Up and away in Kraft i did it!

I was lucky enough to be able to test the update for the new pattern by Liz at Moments.........for those of you who haven't seen it yet, I have a previous blog on the original design........go have a look. The update offers a two person version with a pocket for loose change on the other side. I decided I wanted to create one in Kraft Tex alone.
Let me just say here, I'm no expert, this is how I did it, nothing more, nothing less.
I've never written anything like this before, it makes sense as its going from my brain to my fingers, if it become mumbo jumbo from my fingers to this not responsible.....its started fine in my head!
I use a 50 year old Elna Supermatic machine to sew, some  lightweight domestic machines may struggle to sew trough 4 layers of KT, if you are unsure if your machine can handle this, try cutting four strips of KT and sewing through them all at once, if your machine starts to hiss, whistle and bellow smoke, unplug, leave the room for a while, use copious amounts of Fabreeze to remove the singed smell and contact me, ill make you one!

I'm not going to give measurements here, other then to tell you about the bits that I did differently from the pattern, if you want measurements, please buy the pattern here
In my first KT wallet I cut down the pattern pieces by 1/4 inch, thus removing the seam allowance, but found that to be a bit of a chore, so I experimented, and found that if I print the pattern at 93% on my printer, the pieces come out 1/4 of an inch smaller........clever eh??? half a rain forest was probably cut down for me to get to that if a few of  you follow these instructions, I figure I'm in credit....
First I need to say I used brown KT, unwashed, straight from the could wash it , but I was too impatient to use it
 I cut two of the main panel pieces for the inside one for outside, I decorated outer panel with a gold sharpie pen, just a random abstract pattern but you can do almost anything to decorate you can see I have a sort of tuck in fastening,  to make this I cut a strip 1'' wide and two inches longer than the full length of the wallet, and sewed that centrally from one end to the other onto the KT.......I use Topstitch thread on the top of my machine and a plain brown sewing thread on the bobbin, longest stitch on my machine. I added a couple of dots of Fabritac to hold the strap in place as it was sewn. 
I folded the wallet as it would be folded once complete to work out where the fixing bar needs to be sewn and stitch that on too.
For the pockets I used the following pieces from the original 'Up Up and Away' pattern file, also printed at 93%
 I cut one of each of the following-
RECTANGLE PIECE FROM THE BOTTOM OF POCKET PEICE 2 (from the line that says fold line 2)
These three pieces form the pockets to the side of the wallet
lay the smaller panel on top of the larger panel then add the rectangle on top of that.
 I lined them up then added a tiny spot of Fabritac to the edges to stop them sliding about when I sew, I positioned the pockets 1/2 inch from the edge of the lining panel,  then did a double row of stitching approx. 1/8'' apart around the edge.
From this point on I didn't follow the pattern pieces. For the pocket I cut a rectangle of KT as wide as the wallet and 10.5 inches this point we leave nice photos and enter into the world of odd doodles......... you will have to excuse my drawings they really are for guidance only and to help me explain what I want to say......

So you have your rectangle of KT.......

Your going to make some folds in your KT, those dotted lines are to show you where to fold........good eh?
Two folds, one 1/2'' from the end then another 5'' from the other end. If you fold the longer end over first, then the shorter side this will be your pocket...........I know I know,,,,,we need a zip

Unfolding your folds again, you will need to mark a rectangle  centrally on the KT (see diagram)
 7'' long by 5/8'' wide, (if you are using a shorter zip than 8'' you will need to make this rectangle shorter)  I made mine at 3/4''  from the central fold but you can put it where you feel you want it........there isn't a right or wrong position, if you want it nearer to the top of the pocket......go for it...... I use a craft knife to cut out the rectangle I'm not tidy enough with scissors.  This slot becomes the 'welt' for you zipper. The side of the KT you are looking at, with the folded ends pointing towards you, is the inside of your pocket, I tend to position my zippers from the the zip goes face down onto the slot........but you can do it from the other side with the zip behind the KT is its easier for sure you don't need me to tell you, make sure its central . I use Fabritac to keep the zipper in place and help me to position it..... once your happy with the position, sew very close to the edge of the slot, I use a zipper foot most of the time, but if I'm in a hurry and cant find it.........happens all the time........I just move my needle as far to the left as I can and sew. Be careful of the zipper pull, your foot may catch on it if you don't use a zipper foot and will cause your stitching to go badly off line. In most other situations that would be annoying but salvageable with a seam ripper......not so with KT, you get holes that will  not heal. One chance to get it right only!

Now you need to refold those folds, remember to fold the longer side in first then the shorter one. I use the side of a ruler to press those folds in and make them sharp. I top stitch along the top fold nearest to the zipper.
To position the pocket I fold the lining panel in the way it will fold when its closed, this gives you an idea where the pocket needs to sit I place the pocket 1/3'' from the fold in the lining panel (you can see that on the photo above)  line up the outer edges of the pocket with the edges if the lining panel,  clip it into place so it doesn't move.  a line of stitching right across the bottom of the pocket will secure it to the lining panel it also closes the bottom of the pocket.
Your lining is now done, all that remains to do is join both panels, inside and outside together.  this is the easy bit......just place the two panels together WST (wrong sides together) I put a few spots of Fabritac to stop them slipping about and I clip heavily too with wonder clips. once your happy that the two parts are totally lined up with each stitch around the entire outside of the wallet. Your top stitching will close in the ends of your pocket so its now totally enclosed.
Last but not least, I trim off the corners on the long strip we sewed to the outside panel. I worry ill cut it too short if I cut it before this point so I leave that until

I used Mink Oil on mine to seal it, but I've used bee's wax before and found that to work well too.......but sealing it not necessary.
Eh Voila! wallet.......


  1. I love the sheen the oil gives, it really does look great.

  2. Love your kraft-tex version and your helpful tips. I haven't used kraft-tex yet.